Xu Hướng 3/2023 # Nem Chua (Vietnamese Cured Pork With Garlic And Chiles) Recipe # Top 11 View

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Editor’s note: This recipe is adapted from a recipe by Chef Helen Nguyen of New York’s Saigon Social, who consulted with the author for this article.

Whether served rolled into small logs, cut into squares, or bundled in tropical leaves, nem chua-a beloved type of Vietnamese cured pork-manages to deliver on almost every flavor we crave: sourness from lactic acid; a subtle sweetness imparted by banana leaves or sugar; a pungent bite from raw garlic; ample saltiness; floral spiciness from black pepper and funkiness from white pepper; and a good dose of raw-chile heat. “Usually people use plastic or banana leaves, but my grandpa would wrap them in guava leaves,” says Chef Helen Nguyen of Saigon Social, a homestyle Vietnam restaurant in NYC. “It takes on a slightly herbal bitterness and almost smoky taste.”

The geographic footprint of nem chua isn’t limited to Vietnam-it edges into Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos, too. In the latter two countries, the name of the finished product is typically written as naem (or sometimes nam) and the preparation also incorporates cooked sticky rice in the mixture. In each area, differences in heat levels, days of fermentation, and methods of forming the preparation make for a nuanced range of possibilities in the final nem chua. However, across all regions, nem chua can be enjoyed both as-is (it’s a “perfect accompaniment to an ice cold beer,” says Nguyen), as well as an ingredient in cooked dishes, like naem khao (a crispy rice salad made by frying and crumbling rice balls then mixing them with naem) and phat naem sai khai (naem stir-fried with egg).

Although Nguyen considers nem chua a “top 10 dish of Vietnam,” she says that “more education is needed about it [in the US], because people are worried about raw meat.” Hence, she compares nem chua to charcuterie for those unfamiliar with it: “It’s just cured meat, like a cured sausage, or a dry salami.” While the traditional procedure of making nem chua is to let the ground meat mixture ferment naturally outdoors for a few days, the “modernized” process involves a store-bought curing packet that shrinks the timeline to just 24 hours and dramatically reduces variability across batches.

One of the most popular brands, Lobo (which Nguyen also recommends), markets the curing mix specifically as “nam powder.” The information on many packets is typically written only in Thai script, but Hong and Kim from The Ravenous Couple, a Vietnamese cooking blog, sent me one where all the contents were labeled in English. With an ingredient list in hand, I set out to confirm exactly what kind of transformation the raw meat mixture was undergoing.

First, Anna Bauer, a food scientist who works for a major national packaged foods company, pointed out that nem chua made with this packet is a cured, but not fermented, product. “The meat is only in the fridge for 24 hours, and since the packet doesn’t list any microbes in the ingredients, it doesn’t have time to be ‘fermented’.” However, it still takes on a distinct tanginess due to the main ingredient, glucono delta-lactone (GDL), which breaks down “into gluconic acid due to the high level of moisture in raw meat and lowers the pH, hindering the ability for harmful bacteria to grow.” Additionally, Bauer says that because GDL “denatures some of the proteins, it changes the texture of the nem chua.”

The nicely bouncy, supple bite of nem chua is also partially due to sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP), an alkaline salt that “helps modify muscle fibers chúng tôi them during the curing process,” explains Claire Thrift, a food scientist who has worked on packaged foods for a range of major businesses, such as Post. “STPP has also been shown to increase migration of salt and nitrites into muscle fiber, ensuring even distribution and thus a safe and effective cure.” According to Bauer, the phosphates are also specifically binding to the water in the meat, which “helps the emulsification by not allowing syneresis [the oozing out of liquid].” The result contains more moisture and is easier to chew, Bauer says-similar to “a Slim Jim versus a jerky.”

For those concerned about nitrite, which is also listed in the ingredients (in sodium nitrite form), Thrift says that the sodium erythorbate present helps “inhibit nitrosamine formation, which are the carcinogenic compounds that form when nitrites and proteins interact in your gut, and are responsible for the bad reputation of cured and processed meats.”

Why use nitrites at all? Because they are necessary to prevent the growth of clostridium botulinum, the bacteria that causes botulism, and offers the “cured” flavor we are now accustomed to. It also changes the final color of the product to a more appealing red.

While the process of making nem chua with the packet seasoning is very controlled, all the food scientists I interviewed encouraged those who make the dish to be mindful of food safety, cleanliness, and the use of quality meats. Professor Eric Decker, head of the Department of Food Science at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, says there is potential for trichinosis* when using pork for nem chua, given that the meat is not fully cooked, but this is preventable if the “pork is chemically tested for trichinosis, or frozen at certain temperature and time regimes to kill the trichinosis.” Alternatively, beef may be a better option, although that still constitutes “a microbial risk, just like [eating] beef tartare.”

Nguyen, who has trained under Pat LaFrieda and is a meat expert herself, recommends striking up a relationship with your local butcher to source the best meat possible, and using the leanest cut of pork (or, optionally, beef) available when making nem chua (she explains fattier cuts tend to go rancid more quickly). For pork, a tenderloin or loin is a great choice; for beef, beef eye round. Even with those naturally lean cuts, Nguyen will still trim off as much excess fat as possible. She recommends using a meat grinder at home-a “double grind is the best”-but tossing everything into a food processor also yields suitably delicious results.

If you live near a grocery store stocked with Southeast Asian products, make sure to also grab a few bags of cooked, sliced pork skin (typically kept in the frozen section). These thin, translucent strands create the distinct chew in Nguyen’s nem chua, and are generally found in nem chua preparations across Vietnam (including mass-produced varieties). Bite into a piece and you’ll see those little flecks peeking out against the pink flush of freshly ground pork loin, surrounded by specks of garlic, chile, and peppercorn. “It’s not the same without the skin,” Nguyen says, “it’s like eating a cheeseburger without cheese.”

To Nguyen, nem chua is not only a staple of her upbringing-she likens opening the refrigerator and seeing nem to “finding a ham and cheese or bologna”-but also a fond memory of her father, who passed away 10 years ago. “It was one of his absolute favorites,” she recounts. “He would have a beer with dinner and we would eat nem. It’s a snack, it’s bar food, it’s street food, it’s everything!”

*Per the CDC: Trichinosis, or trichinellosis, is a type of roundworm infection that results from eating raw or undercooked meat infected with the trichinella parasite, particularly wild game meat or pork. Cases of trichinosis in the U.S. have declined sharply over time (see historical graphs), and now the risk of trichinosis from eating commercially raised and properly prepared pork is very low.

Bún Thịt Nướng Recipe (Vietnamese Grilled Pork &Amp; Rice Noodles)

This is love in a bowl. If you’ve had bún thịt nướng you know what I’m talking about.

You have your sweet bits, sour bits, caramelization, some crunch, and aromatic herbs in a single, colorful arrangement. This was one of the more popular dishes at my mom’s restaurant back in the day!

Depending in which restaurant you order your grilled pork with noodles (bún thịt nướng), you’ll find that it’s presented in different ways.

For the most part, ingredients are the same, and they’re both eaten with prepared fish sauce (nước chấm).

Thịt nướng litererally means baked or barbecued meat and in this case it’s traditionally barbecued, and the meat is always pork. You could probably do this with beef or chicken if you prefer and it would work too.

Bún (pronounced like boon) means noodles, and for this dish it’s a rice vermicelli noodle which is sold in small packages as dried rice sticks.

Presentation Variations

Southern Vietnam

The presentation of bún thịt nướng in the pictorial above follows the Southern Vietnamese style. You usually eat it by mixing everything including the fish sauce. I like to keep the dipping sauce separate, so there isn’t a pool of the sauce at the bottom.

The bowl is finally garnished with chopped peanuts and then scallions onions in oil ( mở hành which is tempting to just dump a ton of it on). I like mine with egg rolls ( chả giò) on top too if you have the time to make em! I also like adding cucumbers, which is a Southern ingredient.

Northern Vietnam

In the North, the presentation is slightly different. The rice noodles and vegetables each arrive on their own plate. The meat is put in a small bowl, swimming in prepared fish sauce.

The meat is additionally paired with a pork sausage, called cha (the dish is called bun cha instead). Đồ chua (pickled carrots and daikon) is added on top of the bowl of meat. Northerners eat this by building each bite in their personal bowl, which I guess is more in line with my eating philosophy..

Thịt nướng in Huế, the central region, is a whole other beast for a whole otha post.

However you decide to serve yours, you’re in for a treat!

Some differences in the marinade also really affect the flavor of the meat. Only Southerners use lemon grass in the marinade.

Some recipes for this dish also call for sesame oil, or sesame seeds, but those do not follow Northern or Southern tradition (it’s possibly influenced from the central region).

Marinading Tips

Chop and prep all of your ingredients and combine in a bowl before adding the meat. This makes sure it mixes more evenly.

Add the pork to the mixture and mix. Pork shoulder has a nice balance of fat for this, but may vary by piece so the ratio of fat is up to you! Marinate for at least 1 hour, but for better results marinate overnight.

Cooking the Pork

Thịt nướng is usually barbecued, with a wire grilling basket like this one. If you want to make it traditionally, grill it over charcoals. I made this in the oven because it’s a lot easier and it is still delicious. If you have time, barbecuing it is worth the extra effort.

Rice Noodles

The noodles come in small, medium, and large noodle thickness for about $1.50 per pack. I prefer small and medium thickness for this dish-these thinner ones also cook much faster.

You can find these noodles at many Asian supermarkets, but I don’t think I’ve seen these at any American ones. American ones will have pho noodles, which aren’t what we’re looking for here. Simply boil the dried rice vermicelli (bún) according to the package instructions.

The large thickness ones will work if you have no other option, but isn’t ideal for this dish.

Dipping Sauce

Don’t forget to prepare some super simple fish sauce for this bowl too. The meat is marinaded but the veggies and noodles still need seasoning-the dish is simply incomplete and underseasoned unless you add this!

Lots of people will drizzle this over the bowl before eating, but I like to have control over each bite and dip the meat in befor each bite. I eat slower than most folks and I don’t want the noodles to get all sogged up :).

Now that you’ve had an earful of information, time to eat!

Vietnamese Yogurt Recipe (Sữa Chua/Da

Sharing an easy authentic Vietnamese yogurt recipe. This is a good treat to give to everyone, especially children in their daily meal as an dessert dish.

Check out our youtube channel for more short cooking videos, https://www.youtube.com/NPFamilyRecipes.

Instant Pot Vietnamese Yogurt Recipe

For years, that meant we were amassing a collection of yogurt tubs. My mom loved those tubs for freezing food and I took to gifting her frozen pho broth in recycled yogurt tubs. She got so many tubs that she re-gifted empty tubs to her friend, Mrs. Nha.

Earlier this year, I investigated buying a yogurt maker. Why keep going to Costco for half-gallon tubs of yogurt, especially when my mom had had enough of the recycled tubs?

The yogurt makers on the market are about $100 and my husband questioned how often I would use it before I got bored. I reminded him of the starter that I grew and maintained for years by baking us weekly loaves of walnut bread. He reminded me of how we had it babysat when we when on vacation.

I kept thinking about yogurt makers but then came the Instant Pot, which has a yogurt function. I was eager to try it out and looked to my friend and cookbook author Cheryl Sternman Rule for insights. She wrote an amazing cookbook about yogurt and at her website, chúng tôi , she had instructions for using the Instant Pot to make yogurt.

For regular, plain yogurt, there are only two (2) ingredients:

Milk – Cheryl suggested organic milk for making yogurt and through rounds of testing, I found that you can use low-fat milk or full-fat milk. I like full-fat milk (surprise!) for its rich flavor.

Yogurt starter – Choose one that’s full of live, active cultures. I used the Costco yogurt because it was a very natural product, made with few ingredients. For the first batch, use purchased yogurt. Subsequent batches can be started with yogurt saved from prior DIY batches.

On my last trip to Vietnam, I noticed that the yogurt tended to be sweeter than I remembered. It was also on the runny side. Once home, I tried adding sweetened condensed milk to yogurt and it was okay but the sweet richness of the condensed milk wasn’t fully integrated with the yogurt.

I was curious about adding condensed milk to the IP yogurt, so I made a batch of yogurt and just poured in some condensed milk (I keep it in a jar in a fridge). The half gallon of milk changed flavor with just 1/2 cup of sweetened condensed milk; I thought I’d have to add more.

I went through my regular steps to make yogurt and the next morning… Voila! The yogurt had a sweet lilt. My husband tasted it and remarked, “This doesn’t seem like regular yogurt.” Of course not, it’s Vietnamese yogurt!

Whether you’re making regular or Vietnamese yogurt, it’s simply about following this blueprint:

The Instant Pot can help you do that because it will regulate the temperature. I start a batch in the afternoon or evening and wake up to a pot of yogurt for breakfast. There’s little guesswork or monitoring involved. Cooking while you sleep is fabulous!

The tricks involve working all the buttons and gauging temperature, which I zero in on with a Thermo-Pro instant-read digital thermometer . At first, I was using a regular dial thermometer and it wasn’t precise enough.

To ensure a thicker yogurt, Cheryl has you continue to keep the milk heated for a few minutes after the initial pasteurization. I do that for 5 to 8 minutes via the Saute function. The extra heating induces evaporation so the milk is richer and the yogurt is thicker. Do that with the lid off. The other night I left the lid partially covered and had an accident because the milk did boil.

To cool the milk without getting a film on top, set the milk in a sink of water so there’s enough water to come the sides of the pot — at least the same level as the milk. The photo below is from a one-gallon batch of yogurt. (If your sink is large, use an ice bath and stir the pot now and then.)

When fresh and warm, yogurt will seem rather thin. It will thicken in the fridge but if you want very thick yogurt, strain it through cheesecloth or muslin or paper towel; occasionally whisk to evenly strain and create a creamy texture. The fabric I used below is very thin muslin (you could use it for curtain sheers). The straining time depends on the yogurt quantity and temperature when you strain it. Just eyeball it.

How does Vietnamese yogurt compare to regular yogurt? The color of Vietnamese yogurt is on the buff side, rather than the off-white side. It’s a subtle difference that’s hard to see in this iPhone photo I took.

What’s more interesting to note is the texture. Strained regular yogurt is on the right. I didn’t strain the Vietnamese yogurt on the left because it’s not traditionally super thick. However what I made was creamy, tangy and a touch sweet with the goodness of sweetened condensed milk. It captured the quality and quirk of Vietnamese yogurt.

Double the quantity after you get comfortable with making the recipe. It’ll be good anyway you do it. I never thought I’d type this but the Instant Pot makes yogurt super duper easy and fun.

Instant Pot Vietnamese Yogurt

Courses breakfast, lunch, dinner

If you have Instant Pot yogurt tips or Vietnamese yogurt tips, do share them!

Related post: How to make great rice in the Instant Pot

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