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Fragrantly seasoned grilled rolls of beef wrapped up in wild
betel leaf ( lá lốt) are a favorite Vietnamese snack that’s great with cold beer
or white wine. When the rolls are cooking, the perfume of Piper sarmentosum is
mesmerizing and fills the room. Shiny on one side and matted on the other, the soft, pliable leaves don’t have
much character until heat is applied to them, at which point they release their
sweetly spicy, incense-like fragrance. (Many recipes suggest substitute grape leaves but what’s the use? Those leaves are devoid of the fragrance that these have and that’s the beauty of this special ingredient!)
Lá lốt (“lah loht”) is sold at many Vietnamese and Chinese
markets on Styrofoam trays. Look for ones with healthy green color on the
leaves. The heart-shaped leaves are shiny on one side and matted on the other.
A few holes here and there are okay. Once home, snip off the bottom ½ inch of stem and put the leaves in a small
container partially filled with water. Loosely cover with a plastic bag and
refrigerate for up to four days. I’ve found that this is the best way to keep
them fresh and perky.
My husband, Rory, loves beef in lá lốt and my mom taught him
a nifty, old-fashioned trick for rolling them up. Instead of skewering the
rolls to hold their shape and to grill them, she dispenses with the skewers and
uses the leaf stem to secure the roll in place. She then broils them in the
oven. No burnt up bamboo skewers to deal with. Rory is now our family’s master
of making these rolls. “Even a white guy can do this,” he says.
There are two seasoning options here. You can play with it by
mixing up the seasonings first, tasting it and making any adjustments before
adding the beef. Sun brand of curry powder, sold at many gourmet markets and even at Amazon (!), has wonderful sweet coriander and cumin notes
that harmonizes super well with the betel leaves.
Makes 26 to 30 rolls, enough for 6 as a snack
1 pound ground beef, chuck pferred
Seasoning option #1:
¼ cup minced scallion, green and white part
2 teaspoons fish sauce
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Madras curry powder, Sun brand pferred
Seasoning option #2:
2 tablespoons finely minced lemongrass (about 1 medium-small
stalk)
2 teaspoons Madras curry powder, Sun brand pferred
¼ cup minced scallion, green and white part
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons oyster sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon cornstarch (optional, if you want a firm filling
that does not weep during cooking)
About 4 ounces la lot leaves with the stems attached, enough
to yield 26 to 30 large leaves
1 tablespoon neutral flavored oil
1 recipe Basic Dipping Sauce (nuoc cham), made with the addition of minced garlic
1. In a bowl, combine the beef with one of the seasoning
options and cornstarch. Use your fingers to mix well. Set aside to marinate
while you ppare the leaves.
2. Use scissors or your fingers to detach the leaves from
their center stems. Make sure to keep the leaf stem attached to the leaf.
You’ll need it later for creating the rolls. Rory puts the leaves matted side
facing up so they’re efficiently ready to roll and he doesn’t forget which side
the meat goes on.
3. To make the rolls, put a leaf on your work surface,
matted side up. Take a bit of meat (about 2 tablespoons) and use your hand to
shape it into a small sausage of sorts. Place the meat on the leaf,
about 1/3 of
the way below the pointy tip. The length of the sausage doesn’t need to span
the full width of the leaf because the leaf shrivels during cooking, Rory says.
I like to get the meat to span the full width so that there’s moisture from the
meat to pvent less charring during cooking. It’s your choice.
4. To cook, position an oven rack on the top third of the
oven and pheat to broil. Slip the baking sheet into the oven and broil for 6
to 8 minutes, turning them frequently to cook evenly and pvent too much
charring of the leaf. The cooked rolls will feel firm, look a bit shriveled,
and be slightly charred at the edges.
Instead of broiling, you can also cook the rolls on a stove-top
cast iron grill. Traditional open flame grilling often times burns the leaves
up too quickly, unless you use moderately-low heat.
To grill the rolls, ppare a medium charcoal fire (you can hold your hand over the rack for only 4 to 5
seconds) or heat a gas grill to medium. Grill the rolls, with the top open most of the time so you may constantly monitor their progress and move them around to avoid burning the leaves. (The heat will go to about medium-low because you’ll have the lid open.)
5. Transfer to a plate and serve with the dipping sauce.
Leftovers reheat well in a toaster oven pheated to 350F.
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